I Love Hortus NYC in the Spring Time
Karen Holly Berliner
Being that the name of this restaurant is Hortus NYC which is Latin for garden; the atmosphere beckons all things freshness as the theme of a beautiful garden runs throughout the interior. Enter this treasure of a dining spot located in the NoMad section of New York City, and walk down the entry ramp, allowing the fragrance of the foods and the strains of jazzy music to guide and beckon you.
Divided into four separate spaces, the first floor hosts bar style dining, complete with an open kitchen and a Chef’s Table to emphasize the experience. Ascend to the second floor which has an adjoining outdoor dining room; a hidden garden space with propane heat lamps and glowing lights hanging from the ceiling, exuding a warm and intimate vibe. The main dining room features a full wall of windows allowing perfect glimpses of the city that never sleeps, as vibrant by night as it is by day.
And oh the cuisine---
Hortus NYC is a Michelin-recognized contemporary Asian restaurant where managing partner Suhum Jang (of Per Se, Daniel and Jungsik fame) and Executive Chef SangMin “Lenny” Moon (of Jungsik, Barn Joo and Pado fame) have collaborated on this creative menu, culminating into a true reflection of Chef Moon’s signature style.
Highlighting the distinct flavors of Japan, Korea, China and Southeast Asia, each dish is both delicious and esthetically pleasing, the cuisine at Hortus blending in a perfect fusion, flavors
which makes for fresh modern Asian fare. Executive Chef Lenny clearly accentuates unique spices from the Pacific Islands, China and some Italian influence and accents, also making sure to include vegan and vegetarian options.
The appetizers at Hortus NYC are so palate pleasing that the challenge becomes saving room for the main courses—also the delectable deserts. The Papaya Salad for example, served with a bounty of succulent shrimp, persimmon and a lemongrass dressing, is perfect for this season; any season actually. If seafood is your favorite, an addition to the raw bar is the Royal Platter: a perfectly chilled lobster tail, salmon crudo, shrimp cocktail with an option to include a dozen oysters, all presented in royal fashion thus living up to its name, complete with a hibiscus blossom atop, a vibrant nod to the season. The King Crab Noodle with onion jalapeno pesto, tomato, lemon oil and mala sauce is a no fail hit, an exotic spin on comfort food. The Crispy Rice dish topped with spicy tuna, quinoa, and sriracha truffles has become a signature dish for good reason; its flavors and textures merge to tantalize the senses.
Hortus NYC’s main courses satisfy all palates and include Confit Duck Leg with a smooth coconut puree and soy, Sea Urchin Donabe made of nori puree, cured egg yolk, ikura and black truffles and other choices. For the diehard carnivore, the Spicy Braised Short Rib is tender and flavorful.
Cocktails here are inventive and fresh such as the Oolong High with oolong tea, soju, lemon and cane sugar; and 5th Ave with Jinro 24, Hwayo 23, tonic, mint, and lime. Hortus NYC’s wine program offers select bottles of fine sparkling wines and champagne, red and white wines from France, Italy, New Zealand and the U.S. Japanese craft beer such as Pale Ale Kanazawa, Junmai ginjo and Junmai sake by the glass, unfiltered rice wine and other choice drinks offer perfect pairings.
Desserts include Monaka Ice Cream; an ice cream sandwich with chocolate mochi and choices of black sesame, matcha or vanilla ice cream or for a fruity and creamy treat, the Yuzu Panna Cotta with raspberry and a butter crumble satisfies.
Diners also have the option to order the Hortus Tasting Menu, which includes the Royal platter for two, as well as a choice of an appetizer, main course and dessert for each person, with an option for a wine pairing.
